Jane's Guide to Florence

Traveling to Florence feels like stepping into an open-air museum. The city is alive with history, art, and a sense of timelessness. Cobblestone streets wind through ancient buildings, and the sound of church bells fills the air. Despite its small size, Florence can be bustling with tourists, especially during peak season, but it never loses its charm. The Arno River divides the city, with the historic center on one side and the quieter, more residential Oltrarno district on the other.

Florence is a walker’s paradise, and much of its charm lies in wandering its narrow streets, discovering hidden piazzas, and enjoying a gelato in the shadow of a Renaissance masterpiece.

As the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence boasts stunning architecture, world-class museums, and a vibrant culinary scene. Be sure to pace yourself. The city is so dense with art and history that it can be easy to get overwhelmed. You won’t be able to see every single church, fresco, painting and sculpture in one visit, so take your time. Florence is a city that stays with you long after you’ve left. Its art, history, and beauty make it a destination worth savoring.

Florence is busiest in the summer, so consider visiting in the shoulder seasons (spring or fall) for fewer crowds and more pleasant weather. Also the most popular attractions and restaurants can fill up quickly, so book ahead when possible. I love to visit Florence in the winter when the summer crowds have gone.

My Christmas Florence tours are a great way to see the city at less-crowded time of year. The city is all lit up with beautiful markets and the rich Tuscan fare and full-bodied wines are perfect for warming you up after a day of sightseeing.

Where to stay in Florence

Located near the Ponte Vecchio, the luxurious Hotel Lungarno offers stunning views of the Arno River and a refined, art-filled atmosphere.

The St. Regis Florence is a historic hotel with opulent decor and exceptional service, perfect for those seeking a high-end experience.

Hotel Spadai is a boutique hotel  located near the Duomo that offers stylish rooms and personalized service.

Hotel Davanzati is a family-run hotel with a warm atmosphere and excellent location, just a short walk from major attractions.

Located in the historic center, Hotel Santa Croce is a small, friendly hotel that offers great value for money.

Budget-conscious  and solo travelers might enjoy staying at Hostel Archi Rossi which offers private and shared rooms, as well as a way to meet fellow travelers and join local tours.

If you’d rather have an apartment stay in Florence, check out Central Florence, a recently renovated 1-bedroom apartment where you can prepare some of your own meals and enjoy a little extra space for relaxing. 

What to do in Florence

My favorite way to spend a day in Florence is to get lost walking around the city, stop in a cafe and people-watch for an afternoon, head back to my hotel for a rest, maybe stopping in a few shops on the way, and then head out for a long, laid back rustic dinner in a local trattoria. But if it’s your first visit to Florence, there are a few sights that are not to be missed. 

These sights are all quite popular, for good reason, Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance! You’ll want to book tickets ahead of time and maybe even use a tour guide so as not to waste a lot of time standing in line. 

Visit the Duomo. (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) Climb to the top of the dome designed by Brunelleschi for panoramic views of the city. Don’t miss the stunning frescoes inside and the intricate details of the Baptistery doors, known as the "Gates of Paradise."

Explore the Uffizi Gallery, which is the home of one of the most important collections of Renaissance art in the world, including works by Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Leonardo da Vinci. Plan your visit ahead to avoid long lines, and consider taking a guided tour to fully appreciate the art.

Wander through the Accademia Gallery. Famous for Michelangelo’s statue of David, the Accademia also houses other Renaissance masterpieces. The statue is an iconic symbol of Florence, and seeing it in person is a must.

Walk across the oldest bridge in Florence, the Ponte Vecchio. Lined with jewelry shops, it is a perfect spot to watch the sunset over the Arno River. It’s one of the most photographed places in Florence, and for good reason.

Relax in the Boboli Gardens. These expansive gardens behind the Pitti Palace offer beautiful views of the city and a peaceful retreat from the busy streets. Stroll through the landscaped paths, explore the fountains, and enjoy the sculptures scattered throughout.

Visit the Palazzo Vecchio. Florence’s town hall is a fortress-like building with a rich history. Climb the tower for another perspective of the city. The interior is equally impressive, with ornate rooms and grand frescoes.

Lesser Known Florence Activities

Beyond these main attractions, there are lots of unique and lesser-known activities to help you experience a different side of the city, especially if this is your second or third visit to Florence.

Wander through the Oltrarno District to visit the artisan workshops. The Oltrarno district is located across the Arno River from the historic center and is a place to visit studios where craftsmen create everything from leather goods and jewelry to marbled paper and bespoke shoes.

Relax and people-watch in Piazza Santo Spirito, a lively square and local favorite, surrounded by cafes, bars, and restaurants. Visit the daily market for fresh produce and local goods.

Visit the Bardini Gardens (Giardino Bardini). While the Boboli Gardens are more famous, the Bardini Gardens offer a more intimate and lesser-known escape. The gardens provide stunning views of Florence and are especially beautiful in the spring when the wisteria tunnel is in bloom.

Discover the Secret Passages of Palazzo Vecchio Vasari Corridor. This elevated passageway connects the Palazzo Vecchio with the Uffizi Gallery and the Pitti Palace, running over the Ponte Vecchio. It was used by the Medici family to move between their residences unseen. Guided tours are available, providing a unique perspective on Florentine history.

Visit the Stibbert Museum. Located slightly outside the city center, this eclectic museum houses an extensive collection of arms and armor, as well as decorative arts from various cultures. The museum’s lush gardens and elaborate interiors are a hidden gem.

Climb the Torre di San Niccolò. This medieval tower, located in the Oltrarno district, is open to visitors during the summer. Climb to the top for a unique, crowd-free view of Florence and the surrounding hills.

Explore the Tuscan countryside in a classic Fiat 500. These small group tours often include stops at vineyards or olive groves and give you a chance to see a side of Tuscany that most tourists miss.

Explore the Rose Garden (Giardino delle Rose). This peaceful garden is located on the hillside near Piazzale Michelangelo. It’s home to a beautiful collection of roses, contemporary sculptures, and panoramic views of the city. It’s a great spot for a quiet afternoon away from the crowds.

Discover the Vasari Frescoes in Santa Maria Novella. While the church itself is well-known, many visitors overlook the beautiful Vasari frescoes in the Cappella Maggiore. The church also houses an ancient pharmacy, Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, where you can buy traditional perfumes, soaps, and herbal remedies.

Florence has a rich musical tradition, and attending a classical concert or opera in a historic venue like the Teatro della Pergola or the Church of Santo Stefano al Ponte can be a memorable experience. Check out La Chiesa di Ognissanti for regular performances of Vivaldi’s "Four Seasons" or Teatro Verdi for a variety of classical and contemporary performances.

Join a guided bike tour to explore Florence from a different perspective. It’s a great way to see more of the city, especially areas like the Oltrarno district, the Tuscan hills, or the parks along the Arno River.

Visit the Church of San Miniato al Monte. This Romanesque church is perched on a hilltop just above Piazzale Michelangelo. It’s one of the most beautiful and serene spots in Florence, with incredible views of the city and fewer crowds than the main attractions. The church also has an interesting cemetery and a peaceful atmosphere perfect for reflection.

Explore the Medici Villas and Gardens. Venture outside the city to visit some of the Medici family’s former country residences, such as Villa di Castello or Villa La Petraia. These historic villas offer insight into the lives of the powerful Medici dynasty and are surrounded by stunning gardens.

Where to eat in Florence

Florence's dining scene is a vibrant mix of traditional Tuscan cuisine, innovative modern eateries, and casual street food options. The city has a strong culinary heritage rooted in simple, high-quality ingredients, with a focus on seasonal produce, meats, and local wines. 

Florentine food is known for its rustic simplicity, where the quality of ingredients takes center stage. There are too many amazing restaurants to name in Florence but here are just a few suggestions to get you going. I also love to ask at my hotel and in shops for their latest restaurant recommendations. 

Trattoria da Mario is a beloved local spot known for its authentic Florentine dishes like ribollita and bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine steak). It’s informal, so you might share a table with other diners.

Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori is a tiny, family-run osteria offering classic Tuscan fare in a cozy setting. Reservations are a must.

For a special evening out try, Michelin starred Enoteca Pinchiorri. This is an exquisite dining experience with a focus on Tuscan and Italian cuisine, paired with an exceptional wine list. Reserve your table here well in advance.

Located in the Four Seasons Hotel, Il Palagio offers refined Tuscan dishes in an elegant setting. Reservations recommended.

Casual diners will appreciate All’Antico Vinaio, famous for its delicious, generously stuffed sandwiches. This place often has a line, but it’s worth the wait.

A great way to try out a variety of local dishes and ingredients is to visit the Mercato Centrale. This vibrant food market is a great place for exploring Tuscan specialities among the many different food stalls.

Of course, don’t forget about dessert! Florence is home to some of Italy’s best gelato. Places like Gelateria dei Neri and Vivoli are well-loved for their creamy, flavorful scoops made with fresh ingredients.

How to get to Florence

The best way to reach Florence is by train from any other Italian city. There is also an airport in Florence with a tram system that runs frequently to the city center. You don’t need a car in Florence as the historic center is easily walkable and you’ll want to avoid the hassle of parking.