Jane's Guide to Venice

Venice has a romantic, almost dreamlike quality. The absence of cars in the city of canals creates a slower, more relaxed pace. Narrow alleyways lead to hidden squares (campi), and every corner seems to reveal a picturesque scene straight out of a postcard. Boats and gondolas glide by narrow waterways adding to the relaxed vibe of the city.

Venice is steeped in history, with its roots as a powerful maritime republic evident in its grand palaces, churches, and squares. The city has a rich artistic heritage, with numerous museums and galleries showcasing Venetian art and craftsmanship.

Venice is a city of contrasts—both bustling and tranquil, historic and modern. It offers a blend of cultural richness, scenic beauty, and a unique way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. Despite the challenges that come with its popularity, Venice is a place that leaves a lasting impression on those who visit, thanks to its timeless beauty and enchanting character.

In order to avoid the crowds, consider visiting in the off-season. Venice at Christmas time is just as dreamy and much less crowded than the summer.

Also, lots of people take day trips to Venice, so often the squares empty out a bit in the evenings, so it’s worth finding a hotel or guest house in the center to appreciate the city in its more quiet and mysterious hours. Walking through the dimly lit streets at night with the sound of the water lapping against the buildings is high on the list of the most romantic experiences I’ve ever had.

Where to stay in Venice

For a splurge in Venice, Hotel Danieli is a luxurious, historic hotel offering stunning views of the lagoon and elegant, opulent rooms. 

For a more intimate experience closer to the sights, try the boutique Hotel Flora. It has a beautiful garden and classic Venetian decor.

The Ca’ Pisani Hotel is in the quieter neighborhood of Dorsoduro. It’s more residential, with a vibrant arts scene. This stylish, modern hotel is in a 16th-century building, offering a mix of contemporary design and Venetian elegance. It is close to the Accademia Gallery, Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and offers easy access to the Grand Canal.

The Pensione Accademia is a lovely hotel with a beautiful garden and classic Venetian charm, located near the Accademia Bridge.

The Hotel Ai Mori d’Oriente was a boutique hotel with luxurious decor inspired by Venice’s eastern connections, offering a peaceful retreat away from the tourist crowds in the Cannaregio neighborhood, offering a more local atmosphere, with fewer tourists and a strong sense of Venetian life. It’s also home to the historic Jewish Ghetto and plenty of authentic eateries.

Also in Cannaregio, is the modern Carnival Palace Hotel with canal views.

Some more affordable options for hotels are in Castello, a large, diverse district that includes both bustling areas near San Marco and quieter, more residential sections further east. Try Hotel Sant’Antonin, a charming hotel with a lovely garden and a mix of modern and traditional Venetian decor.

A more luxurious option is Hotel Londra Palace, with elegant rooms and stunning views of the lagoon, located near the Riva degli Schiavoni.

For an apartment stay in the heart of Venice try this Clock Tower Apartment in San Marco. 

Or if you prefer a view of the water, ask for a canal-view apartment at Palazzo Dei Fiori. Besides the lush view, you’ll enjoy the exquisite design of this 19th century historic palazzo. Bonus is that you can arrive right at the door via water taxi.

What to do in Venice

If it’s your first time to Venice, of course you’ll want to visit the sights that have made the floating city so famous.

St. Mark’s Basilica and Piazza San Marco is the heart of Venice. All alleyways seem to lead here. St. Mark’s Basilica is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, with its ornate façade and glittering mosaics. Piazza San Marco, the city’s main square, is surrounded by historic buildings and is a hub of activity, especially during the day.

The Grand Canal is Venice’s main waterway, lined with opulent palazzi that reflect the city’s glorious past. A vaporetto (water bus) ride along the canal offers a unique perspective of the city and its architecture.

The Rialto Bridge is one of Venice’s most famous landmarks. It spans the Grand Canal and is a bustling spot for tourists and locals alike. The surrounding area is filled with shops, markets, and cafes.

Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) is a stunning example of Venetian Gothic architecture. It was the residence of the Doge (the ruler of Venice) and the seat of government. Its interior is adorned with impressive artworks, and the prison cells can be accessed via the famous Bridge of Sighs.

Visit The Venetian Lagoon and Islands. Beyond the main island, Venice’s lagoon is home to other fascinating islands, such as Murano (famous for glassmaking), Burano (known for its colorful houses and lace), and Torcello (one of the oldest settlements in the lagoon).

While it’s a bit of a cliché, a gondola ride through the canals is a quintessential Venetian experience. It offers a different perspective of the city’s architecture and allows you to explore quieter, less-traveled waterways.

Once you’ve visited the main attractions, you might want to see a little more of Venice. Try out a few of these ideas:I recommend doing a food tour to get a taste of Venice’s famous cicchetti, Italy’s version of tapas that often come alongside your late afternoon drink.

Venice is home to a wealth of art galleries and museums, such as the Gallerie dell'Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and Ca' Rezzonico. These institutions showcase everything from Renaissance masterpieces to modern art.

Get lost. Some of the best experiences in Venice come from simply wandering away from the main tourist areas. The city’s maze-like streets are full of hidden treasures, including charming cafes, artisan shops, and quiet squares where locals gather.

Venice has a rich musical tradition, and attending an opera in one of its historic theaters, like La Fenice can be a fun, memorable experience. Lots of churches host smaller concerts as well. Keep your eyes and ears open, and you might just happen upon a local musical experience.

Climb to the top of the Campanile di San Marco for the views of San Marco. St. Mark's bell tower is a separate building from San Marco and you can go all the way to the top for gorgeous views of Venice.

Where to eat in Venice

Venice’s cuisine is distinct, with a focus on seafood. Try dishes like sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines), risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto), and fresh cicchetti (Venetian tapas) in a local bacaro (wine bar).

Antiche Carampane is a hidden gem known for its authentic Venetian dishes like baccalà mantecato (creamed cod) and sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines). It’s a favorite among locals and visitors alike. 

A tiny, intimate restaurant that serves fresh seafood with a daily-changing menu is Osteria alle Testiere. Reservations are essential due to its small size and popularity.

Close to San Marco, Trattoria da Fiore is a classic Venetian trattoria offering traditional dishes in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. The cicchetti (Venetian tapas) are a highlight.

For a special occasion, Ristorante Quadri is a Michelin-starred restaurant offering refined Venetian cuisine with stunning views of St. Mark’s Square.

Another Michelin-starred restaurant with a glamorous setting and a menu that blends Venetian tradition with modern innovation is Oro Restaurant. Often hailed as the best restaurant in Venice, you might even spot a celebrity here.

For a more casual dining option, try All’Arco in San Polo. It’s a popular bacaro (wine bar) known for its excellent cicchetti and local wines. It’s a great spot for a quick, authentic bite while exploring the city.

Cantina do Spade is a lively, casual place with a lot of character. It’s a historic osteria near the Rialto Market, offering a variety of traditional Venetian dishes and cicchetti. 

Enjoy a relaxed meal at Osteria al Portego, where you can mingle with locals and enjoy Venetian specialties in the Castello neighborhood.

How to get to Venice

There are no cars in Venice, which is part of its charm. The best way to travel there is by water bus (vaporetto) or water taxi. You can book a water taxi all the way from the airport for around 100 euros but you can save some money by getting the water bus from the Santa Lucia Railway Station.